Due to lack of service, day 35 and 36 will both come out this morning

I was excited to get out today for so many reasons. Because it was cold and I wanted to get going. Because we were going to cross the 500 mile marker. Because we were entering the Grayson highlands – the land of the wild ponies. Because it still just feels good to be back on trail. 

Even though second breakfast and Viking are much slower hikers than rocket and I, we all agreed to walk the first .6 miles together and to cross the 500 mile marker as a group. 

We hooted and hollered as we saw it and made a stranger take our photo by the sign that so clearly stated our accomplishment. Deuce and I looked at each other – “one Camino down,” he said.

“Only 3 and a half to go,” I replied.  

We stuck around for a quick stretch circle, a few more photos and then a quick rendition of I wanna Be by the pretenders (IF I COULD WALK 500 MILES THEN I WOULD WALK 500 MORE).  We were back to being joyous, all thoughts of yesterday’s jackasses gone from our minds. 

The day continued to deliver. First we walked through a field of steer. They looked up at us with their long horns without stopping their grazing. They let us know they saw us, and they were letting us through. But they also seemed to let us know that they could also change their minds. 

When we passed the steer, we came across a family of wild ponies. They were 100 yards off or so but we stood there for a long time. Just staring at a family of wild ponies (the app refers to them as feral ponies, but those words shouldn’t go together in my mind) as they basked in the sun and ate grass.

Poles, a fascinating 22 year old from Ohio who was proudly unvaccinated, joined rocket and I as we walked through. He talked a lot but it was entertaining to have him around none the less. The conversation veered in every direction and jerked around all over the place. 

The plan had been to hitch a ride to a local general store for lunch and a resupply before coming back and continuing on. But when we got to the parking lot and turned on our phones, there was a text from Viking. “General store is closed until 2026.” Shit. 

We were just about out of food. And I really had my mind set on a burger. There wasn’t enough cell service to look up what was around and when we stopped a few cars, no one seemed to know if there was food anywhere. I stopped one woman who said “well I’m headed to a gas station and got room for one if you want a ride.” Good enough. 

I told rocket and poles I’d just get a smattering of gas station food and we’d split it. I hopped in the car with Kim and learned all about the 25km trail run she had just finished. “You’re crazy,” I told her. “25km over these mountains?”

She just laughed. “Says the guy walking 2200 miles.” Fair enough. 

As we turned a corner, a text came through from rocket. “Store is not closed. Poles and I are hitching there now.” I was so confused but figured I’d see how it all played out. I let Kim know the latest update and she just shrugged. “If it’s on the way, I’ll drop you there instead.” And luckily it was. 

Given that rocket and poles were on their way, I knew I didn’t have to rush. And so I didn’t. I sat down and ordered a burger, chips, tots and a coke. And then I saw they had fresh baked chocolate chip cookies the size of my head. I got  one of those as an appetizer as well. 

Getting a ride back to the trail after our feast and resupply was a lot easier. A family was heading up to the park and said if we could all fit, we could have a ride. So rocket, poles and I shoved ourselves into the backseat with their son and his car seat. The son was especially delighted to have us in the car, using the ride to point at every thing in our packs and ask “what’s this?”

The rest of the hike flew by, we spent it chatting about anything that popped into our heads, movies, books, philosophy. Anything. But every once a while the conversation would be stopped when someone yelled “ponies!”

We walked past 3 more groups of ponies. These ones much closer to us. One mama pony and her foal walked within a few feet of us. But they just looked their big eyes at us and kept on walking. They were all adorable, especially the babies, and so calm around people too. 

We reunited with deuce and Viking at the shelter. We got our now standard game of rummy going as we ate dinner. We lasted longer than most in the rain (this was by far the most crowded shelter I’ve been at since the first week) but eventually retired to our tents. 

Once again, rain is falling on the rain fly as I fall asleep. Hopefully to dream of wild ponies. 

Key stats:

Miles: 11

Elevation gained: 1,700

Mile marker: 510

What I would do if I could walk 500 miles: walk 500 more