I guess I forgot how to sleep in a hammock during my time at home. I spent most of the night awake and wasn’t really in a chipper mood when I got out of my hammock. Dad, on the other hand, seemed to have slept well and was feeling great. So like the seasoned and welcoming vet who who shows the rookies the ropes that I am, I just ignored most of his optimism as I went about my morning chores. 

Since we had both been up early, it was earlier than normal when we hit the trail. “I’ll see you in 3.5,” I told him. “There’s a spring up there.” And then scurried off at my pace and he settled into his own. It probably sounds weird for us to be walking at our own paces but we both agreed that was best. We’ll walk at our own paces, then spend camp time actually together. 

The beginning of the trail was rocky. Rocksylvania was not giving us its worst, but it definitely hadn’t laid out the red carpet for us either. By the time I got to the water source in 3.5, my ankles were already upset. And then I saw the text from Mamas Boy in a group chat – “the section from wind gap to Delaware water gap is probably the worst rocks on trail.” Great – so what we were going to do today. 

I was trying to figure out how to break the bad news when dad came up. “These rocks are not the place for someone who broke his ankle last year to start.” He wasn’t wrong. But he didn’t know what was yet to come. I told him and we quickly devised a plan. He would hike another 5 miles and then grab a cab at the wind gap road crossing to Delaware water gap. I would push the 24 miles to get there by trail and we would meet up in town. 

I think we were both happy with the plan. He doesn’t want to slow me down. I don’t want to rush him (or, let’s be honest, move at his pace) and we both want to spend camp time together. So with that, I was off. 

It didn’t take long before it was obvious how good a plan this was. The rocks that had started out as nuisances were growing in size and pointiness. Everything hurt as I cruised over them. My ankles, my feet, my shins, my knees. I felt it everywhere. I was glad dad had made the smart move to skip this section. If I didn’t have to do it, I’m not sure I would have. 

I got to the wind gap parking lot and saw another water cache and asked the other thru hiker there if it was for the taking. He said it was. Then he looked at his full 2 liters, his two gstorades, his electrolyte mix. “Actually I’m going to grab a bit more before you go. To get some for my wife.” I looked at my empty water bottles and then stared at him. It took a second, but eventually he seemed to get it. “Actually, why don’t you go ahead and grab a bit first? Looks like you’re empty”

We chatted for a minute before I headed in again. Each step feeling good muscularly and terrible tendonly. Every step hurt more and more as I walked over the jagged rocks and was unable to stay upright and progressing. I kept having to catch myself from falling. And I kept stopping. I was soon dripping sweat. I cursed when I kicked rocks. Then I started screaming curses. Then I started just whimpering. I had no pride left. 

I almost ignored the rustling I heard in the bush but realized it was definitely bigger than a squirrel. I took a step back as the rustling ended and a porcupine walked out of the undergrowth. I pointed at it and yelled “cucumber!” It was at least 30 seconds before I realized the word I meant to shout was “porcupine.”

I continued to backtrack as we stared at each other for another beat before he shook out his quills and lazily continued to the other side of the trail. Clearly thinking to himself “if this animal can’t even walk on rocks without whimpering, he’s not a threat to me.”

The last few miles to town and dad and a hotel room were among the saddest miles ever walked. I got lost, i got poured on, I kicked rocks, I whimpered, I screamed curses, I limped and did anything else I could think of to let the world know I was not ok. But in reality. I was ok. It was just a super tough day. 

I met dad at the hotel and was not pleased when I looked at the art on the wall…. Rocks! I almost tore it down, but honestly, I just didn’t have the energy. 

We ate at a 1980s themed Japanese restaurant in town and are hoping for a good nights sleep. 

Key stats:

Miles: 24

Elevation gained: 2,200 ft

Mile marker: 1297

When I’ve ever been this excited to make it to New Jersey: never.