It was cold again this morning as I got up. So I laid in my sleeping bag longer than I meant to. But by 8:30, I started to feel guilty and got up. A quick breakfast and pack of camp and I was on the road. 

Less than a mile in, I saw a sign that read “this way to the southern cookie lady.” And if you know anything about me, it’s that I always go meet cookie ladies. (Please reference Ride for Kore, day 4 or so. Riding into afton, VA I believe) 

Not 400 yards off the trail were three cabins. On the front porch were two women I hadn’t met before but were clearly thru hikers. “She’s getting us our hot chocolate,” Daniel told me. And with that, the cookie lady bust out the front door with a huge smile and two mugs of hot chocolate. “Your cobbler will be right out!” She told them. McKayla smiled the biggest smile I’d ever seen.

I introduced myself to the cookie lady and she let me know that her name was Peggy and she was called to do this by the lord (foot in mouth moment of the day, I responded “hell yeah!” Actually.) but even with my heathen ways, Peggy was delightful. She told me to grab a cookie, asked me if I’d like hot chocolate and said if I left a donation for the library in Hot Springs, I could have a slice of cobbler. All of it was DELICIOUS.

I was the last one left and was packing up when a women in all yellow came in. The cookie lady gave her the same shpeel (sp?) but the women let her know she was gluten free. “Would you like a gluten free pineapple bar?” She asked. The woman burst into tears. 

“I’ve had such a rough morning. You have no idea how great that would be.” The cookie lady wasted no time. She went inside to grab her a cup of tea and some tissues. 

“Hey,” I said. “I’m D’art, what’s going on?” She introduced herself and let me know that she was just having such a hard time. She kept watching people fly by her without even trying and she was barely able to put one foot in front of the other. And she missed her husband. 

I promised her that no matter what people said, it wasn’t easy for anyone. A group of college aged hikers walked in. “Pretty easy trail so far right?” They laughed and one of them said “absolutely,” her voice dripping with sarcasm. The woman smiled at me and told me she had a reservation in a hostel in a few days. She just had to make it til then.

We chatted a bit longer and promised to see each other in Maine. I hope she meant it. It seems that the last week of rain and long climbs has really been wearing on people. Most of the folks I talked to today were down, struggling or had just gotten their groove back after being down or struggling. It’s been a rough stretch but I’m really hoping people stick with it.

I hiked for a while with Jack in the box (so named because he apparently is always pulling surprises out of his bag – like a tobacco pipe or a wet stone), a bartender from Brooklyn. It turns out he works 10 minute from where I live. I’ve never been to Muggs but I guess I’ll have to go when I get back. We chatted about life in Brooklyn until we passed a major milestone. Together we crossed the 300 mile marker of the trail! 

The rest of the day was spent pretty much in solitude. I walked and enjoyed the beautiful day. Today was the day you imagine when you think about hiking the AT. It was cool, sunny and a bit breezy. The flowers were starting to bloom and the leaves on the trees are just starting to come out. There were rock scrambles and views and everything you’d want in a hike. I found myself hoping that everyone else was having such a great day as well. 

And then, as I left lunch (peanut butter, jelly and chicken in a tortilla – don’t recommend), I saw something out of the corner of my eye. I looked up just in time to see a bear running away. Naturally I sprinted towards it trying to get a photo (just kidding, mom, no I didn’t). 

I stood still til it was out of sight and then walked on. Clacking my poles together as loud as I could and talking out loud. Even though the fuzzy guy looked adorable, I really wasn’t trying to see him any more close up than that. 

I didn’t want the internal reflection day to end so I passed the shelter and found a campsite all by itself. I made a small fire and sitting next to my own campfire, cooked dinner and watched the sun set over the mountains. 

Key stats:

Miles: 20

Elevation gained: 4700 ft

Mile marker: 310

Bears: 1